v3.26.1
Intangible assets
6 Months Ended
Jun. 30, 2026
Disclosure of detailed information about intangible assets [abstract]  
Intangible assets
9. Intangible assets

The following table presents a breakdown for intangible assets.

(€ thousands)GoodwillBrandConcessions, licenses, trademarks and patentsSoftwareOther intangible assetsIntangible assets in progressTotal
Historical cost at December 31, 2025247,234153,131116,141167,52271,094824755,946
Additions5114,2082,1019257,745
Disposals(2)(763)(765)
Exchange differences4,9784,7853,153865613,787
Other movements and reclassifications152125(238)(60)
Historical cost at June 30, 2026252,212157,916119,804171,78273,4221,517776,653
Accumulated amortization at December 31, 2025(27,970)(110,082)(63,808)(201,860)
Amortization(2,111)(6,082)(3,929)(12,122)
Impairment(4)(4)
Disposals1713714
Exchange differences(463)(22)(766)(1,251)
Accumulated amortization at June 30, 2026(30,543)(116,186)(67,794)(214,523)
Carrying amount at:
December 31, 2025247,234153,13188,17157,4407,286824554,086
June 30, 2026252,212157,91689,26155,5965,6281,517562,130

Thom Browne segment

Given the continued challenging conditions in the luxury sector and their impact on the performance of the Thom Browne segment, management conducted an impairment test at June 30, 2026. The Thom Browne segment included goodwill and the brand with an indefinite useful life amounting to €219,903 thousand and €157,916 thousand at June 30, 2026, respectively.

For the purposes of the impairment test, the recoverable amount was compared to the carrying amount. The recoverable amount was determined based on a value in use calculation, which used cash flow projections based on the most recent approved budget forecasts. A long-term growth rate was calculated and applied to project future cash flows after the initial forecast period. In assessing the value in use, the estimated future cash flows were discounted to their present value using a post-tax discount rate that reflected current market assessments of the time value of money and the risks specific to the asset.

The main assumptions to calculate the recoverable amount of the Thom Browne segment were the following:

Discount rate of 8.61%: The rate used to discount cash flows was calculated using the weighted average cost of capital (“WACC”) post tax. The WACC was calculated considering the parameters specific to the geographical areas: market risk premium and sovereign bond yield;

EBITDA CAGR 2028 vs. 2025 of +50.3%: The EBITDA compound annual growth rate (CAGR) applied by management to calculate the expected future cash flows, and

Terminal value growth rate of 2.75%: Determined using the perpetuity method at a long-term growth rate which represents the present value of all expected future cash flows at the last year of projection.
Sensitivity analysis

The following table presents the results of a sensitivity analysis performed to verify whether reasonably possible changes in the main assumptions used to determine the recoverable amount of the Thom Browne segment would significantly affect the results of the impairment test. Based on the sensitivities presented below, headroom would remain positive under all scenarios except for an adverse increase of 100 basis points in the WACC assumption.

Existing assumptionsSensitivity effects on headroom
(€ millions, except percentages and basis points)HeadroomWACC (%)EBITDA CAGR 2028 vs. 2025 (%)Growth rate (%)WACC
+100 bps
EBITDA
-500 bps
Growth rate
-50 bps
Thom Browne segment1048.61%50.3%2.75%(4)4750